On the bright side, the island has been cleaned up considerably from the festering sore it was a decade ago, when construction marred much of it and filth covered the beaches. Through a combination of a growing emphasis on ecological preservation, and, ironically, the tsunami itself, today the sand and waters are fairly clean, there are no private cars or macadam roads and no plans to introduce any. A few dozens saleangs — motorcycles with side cars — pick their way over sand and dirt roads, transporting passengers and their bags to their hotel when they first arrive, but they are mostly used for getting goods and equipment from here to there. Other than that, modes of transport are limited to push carts, bicycles and flip-flops.

At present, as it was before the tsunami, Ton Sai village occupies a large chunk of the isthmus, constituting nothing so much as an open-air shopping mall. Along Ton Sai beach, half-a-dozen bars blast pop-music out over the water, serving pricey drinks and providing fire shows for the tourists into the wee hours of the night. Though on average it’s more expensive than many other Thai islands, it’s still remarkably cheaper than similar accommodation in other premier destinations around the world. Try finding a decent room in Hawaii or San Tropez for ten dollars a night.

Despite the touts and the crowds, Ton Sai village remains just what many vacationers are looking for and provides everything they need for a fun, memorable holiday. And in terms of the unspoilt tropical paradise the island once was, the good news for the keepers of the flame is that it has not died out completely. Ko Phi Phi Don’s sister island, Ko Phi Phi Leh remains completely untouched, and only available for daytrips by boat — though many now complain that the inundation by day-trippers has spoiled the place in an only slightly less regrettable way. But there’s more: between Ton Sai and Laem Thong, at the northern tip of the island, there are half-a-dozen beaches, many accessible only by boat, offering an escape from the maddening crowds. There you’ll find some dirt cheap accommodation, charming, rustic bungalows and mid-to-high-range spots — from banal tour-group operations to some of the most exquisite luxury spots in Thailand. And there are still Chao Ko living out on Laem Thong, running local shops along-side the fancy resorts, selling food and drink at local prices.

Even within walking distance of Ton Sai village, inland towards the northern part of the isthmus, there’s a great variety of places to stay where you can easily forget all about the shopping mall’s dubious attractions. Old school travellers may well loathe what they see when they get off the boat, but when all is said and done, the natural beauty of the island is still there to be enjoyed, and with a little effort, they may well find paradise regained.

Ko Pha Ngan is the second largest island after Samui in the southern Gulf of Thailand, and is around 100km from the mainland. Stretching over an area of 168 sq km, 70% of its topography is mountainous with the remainder beaches and coconut groves.

Over 10,000 people permanently live on the island, with the majority concentrated around Thong Sala. A huge number of migrants also call the island home, so the guy taking your dinner order is as likely to be from Roi Et as Thong Sala. As in the rest of Thailand, most people are Buddhist, but some Muslims live in the village of Baan Tai. The first inhabitants of the island are believed to have been Muslims from Pattani or Malayans from Nakhon Sri Thammarat.

Aside from the tourist trade, the mainstays of the island’s economy are fishing and coconuts. It’s worth knowing that between them, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Samui produce more than one million coconuts each year for export to Bangkok.

The best time to visit Ko Pha Ngan is during the hot season from January to April. May to December sees the monsoon set in, with poor weather and a quick deterioration in road quality. The crowds thin out then, however, making the island appealing to some travellers.

Ask many Bangkok residents though and you’ll quickly hear some of the rave reviews Ko Mun Nork receives — both as a romantic weekend getaway, but also for the occasional parties thrown on the island — parties which are very much invite only.

Private label raves and romantic weddings aside, Ko Mun Nork is certainly worth consideration — particularly on weekdays when you could well have the entire island to yourself. It’s a hidden away paradise representing excellent value.

With stunning white sandy beaches adjoining crystal clear water it is fast becoming famous for its scenery; British newspaper The Sunday Times recently included Ko Mak as one of their ‘Top Ten Beaches in the World’, and the past few years has seen the island’s beauty also attracting film makers looking for an authentic tropical location.

A single track road meanders through the island and offers the chance for the explorative to find their own deserted beach, or perhaps take in the sights and sounds of the jungle. If you’re searching for your own slice of ‘Robinson Crusoe’ then this is possibly about as close as it comes.

Coconut and rubber tree plantations cover a vast proportion of the island, interspersed with patches of lush virgin forest. The population of the island is created from two parameters; one group being the land owners, descendants of Chao Sua Seng, a Chinese Affairs Officer and Coconut Baron who owned the island a century ago, and the other being the workers who have settled and live on the plantations. The population now numbers upwards of 600 people.

Until the 1990’s there were only a few package hotels on the island; today there are more than 20, ranging from modest backpacker accommodation to luxury boutique resorts. The often misleading rumour that Ko Maak only caters to pre-booked tours can be no further from the truth, the majority of places welcoming walk–in trade. With three piers currently in operation serving speed boats and ferries to Ko Chang and the mainland there’s plenty of options for getting to and from the island, and most places send a representative to the piers to tout for business and bring you to their resort for free.

Outside of the resorts there’s not much to do except soak up the splendour of nature, and perhaps take a snorkelling or diving trip to the nearby Marine Park which offers easily the best selection of marine life in the Gulf of Thailand. Days are spent lazing around on the beach, in a hammock, or perhaps taking advantage of the newly designed bicycle tracks around the island. Nightlife is virtually non-existent except for a few cosy bars and restaurants; if you’re looking for disco’s and a bit of company then neighbouring Ko Chang will far better suit your needs.

Ko Maak is that tranquil place that many people come to Thailand looking for, and those who find it usually stay far longer than planned. As to how long it will remain this way we will have to wait and see … for now though, it truly is a slice of heaven.

Orientation

There are resorts scattered all over the island but the majority can be found on the two main beaches which cover almost all of the West coast. To the northwest is Ao Suan Yai, and southwest is Ao Kao. The western point which separates the two beaches is a rocky headland opposing a tiny island known as Ko Pii, (Ghost Island), which offers good snorkelling.

For those who prefer some variety after several days on the beach, there are plenty of boat trips on offer and the many snorkeling/diving opportunities should not be missed. Keep in mind though that being a part of Ko Tarutao National Park, fishing is illegal around the island, so steer clear of fishing trips and seafood — it’s sometimes been caught illegally.

There’s a Chao Lay village near Sunlight beach, with several shops, a school that offers expensive internet access, and basic medical dispensary. Travellers with medical expertise are invited to register at the dispensary in case there’s an emergency on the island. When walking through the village and near the school, please wear appropriate clothing. Few Chao Lay are directly employed by tourism, aside from the longtail drivers who meet the ferries and take tourists to Lipe for 30B per person. This is an important source of income for them, and the price is non-negotiable.

There have been increasing complaints about problems of litter and waste disposal on Ko Lipe. It is a small island, ill-equipped to cope with the volume of tourism it is now receiving, so try to tread lightly. If you’ve got a free day try to rustle up a few people and go do a bit of cleaning.

The centre of the island is given over to rubber cultivation and there are a number of posibilities for walking trips including walking around the island.

Its a nice laid back kind of place that doesn’t have the jaded feel of some other islands in this area.

Famous for its dugongs, trips can be organised to go and see them through the resorts.

As travellers moaned about packed out beaches and overpriced bungalows on Ko Phi Phi and Railay, sausage-shaped Ko Lanta was awash with near-deserted beaches and surprisingly good value accommodation.

But, like all the best secrets, word about just how great Ko Lanta is has slowly slipped out and over the last couple of years in particular, there’s been substantial development. But don’t panic, just because there’s a six-star boutique over the headland doesn’t mean all the bamboo shacks have gone the way of the Dodo.

Instead, today Ko Lanta has something for just about every budget — from luxurious hideaways to backpacker crash huts, and everything in between. And, in a nod to it remaining off the package tour radar, Ko Lanta remains seasonal — in low season much of the island shuts down.

There’s an upside to low season of course — if you don’t mind coming out of the ocean to the occasionally soggy beach towel, you’ll get some astounding cheap deals — and more than likely have the beach all to yourself.

In season, Ko Lanta is far more popular, and there’s stacks of ways to keep busy — from sunbaking (yes you can be busy sunbaking) through to snorkelling and diving trips, elephant rides, afternoon volleyball matches, back-country explorations or just slowly but steadily wearing out your hammock.

The scene is considerably less hectic than the busier islands and, due to the smooth beaches and calm waters it’s particularly popular with those travelling with young children.

Ko Kood s the southernmost and second-largest island in the Ko Chang group, and the closest to Cambodia. Rumour has it that there’s a secret ladies village of Cambodian and Vietnamese refuges existing somewhere on the island, and many of the island’s residents are undoubtedly from Indochinese stock.

Accommodation-wise, the theme is overwhelmingly up-market. That occasional whine of a helicopter flying low overhead? That’s the sound of Bangkok’s mega-rich business set taking their families to a hermetically sealed hideaway for the weekend.

However not all is lost, if you have a lot of patience and are prepared to eat from a limited menu at the same restaurant for every meal, it’s a great place to get away from the hordes.

Privately owned (it was purchased for five million baht around 15 years ago), its a shame the owner hasn’t spent some of his money finding out what changes a place from a great place to visit to a great place to stay.

Nevertheless the beach is stunning and the coral reef large and undamaged (by Thailand’s standards). The view from the beach is spectacular, looking out and over other islands such as Ko Muk.

If you are in the area, it’s definetly worth coming out here - but for the moment, a day-trip remains the best option.

Most of the beaches are on the western coast, and each has built up with a distinctive atmosphere based on shopping, activities, partying or chilling out. Accommodation offers a style to suit every type of traveller, from independent low budget backpackers to those wanting a touch of luxury. There are plenty of activities to be organised from almost anywhere on the island: snorkelling and diving trips to nearby coral reefs, jungle treks and elephant rides, not to mention various beach sports.