Da Nang (Đà Nẵng) is Vietnam’s fourth largest city, and is located on the South China Sea coast, midway between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

The city itself has neither the atmosphere of Hanoi nor the hustle-bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, but has its share of sights, and is close to the charms of Hoi An and the imperial capital of Hue.

There are many remnants of the “American War” leftover in Da Nang. Each bridge has a different builder, whether they be French, American, or Vietnamese. On the way to the popular tourist spot China Beach, the ruins of a military base remain in the form of helicopter hangars.

The city is often overlooked by tourists but is one of the most friendly to backpackers in all of Vietnam. China Beach, a former R&R destination for American G.I.’s, is now home to a small community of guest house owners, marble statue shops, and other various trades. Some of the most beautiful and isolated beaches in Vietnam are found here, among some of the friendliest people. This is a must stop for the budget traveler.

Things to see in Da Nang

• Cham Museum (Bảo Tàng Chăm), Trung Nu Vuong and Bach Dang Sts. Founded in 1915 by the École Française d’Extrême Orient, it houses a large collection of sculptures from the Hindu-practicing Cham civilization, which occupied the area in the first millennium C.E.
• The Marble Mountains (Ngu Hanh Son; admission 15,000 dong, tel. 511.961114) are 9km south of Da Nang. The group includes Kim Son (Mountain of Wood), Thuy Son (Mountain of Water), Hoa Son (Mountain of Fire), and Tho Son (Mountain of Earth). Several Buddhist temples have been built into the caves and grottoes, and it’s a popular pilgrimage site. The real fun, though, is at the Am Phu cave, where you can make the steep climb up toward the light and a view from the top of the mountain, surrounded by approving sacred images…or head in the opposite direction, physically and spiritually, down to the crude Hieronymous Bosch-esque statues of sinners getting their due in the caverns below, with appropriately eerie lighting. Either way, bring walking or climbing shoes. Open-tour buses will stop here, but you’ll be rushed along; any moto driver in Da Nang or Hoi An will be happy to take you and let you set the schedule. Guides are available. Watch out for the rapacious statue-sellers outside, though.
• Ocean Blue Bar&Grill, 36 Xuan Dieu St. (on the corner of 3 Thang 2 Street). An elegant yet relaxed, ocean-view setting overlooking the city skyline, the Hans River, Mount SonTra and the newly built Thuan-Phuoc suspension bridge. Try the Ocean Blue chicken wing, Alfredo seafood spaghetti and the special Peppercorn Steak! Reasonable price( 2.0 - 3.0 USD/ dish). They also serve wines, cocktails and fresh fruits juice. Smooth jazz and soft easy listening is the house music. The staff are professional and friendly.
• Apsara Restaurant, 222 Tran Phu Street. This is the most upscale restaurant that combines somewhat Vietnamese food with acceptability to up-market Western tourists, who are often present in surprisingly large groups. Very plush and decent if expensive food.
• Hoa’s Guesthouse at China Beach. The gathering spot for backpackers in the evenings, as Hoa hosts “family dinners.” For about US$1.50 you get treated to an all-you-can-eat buffet, courtesy of Hoa’s wife. Picnic tables are full of travellers inside this tiny cafe, starting at around 7PM.

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